Monday, January 2, 2012

NP#32 - Hot Springs



Nov 5, 2011 - Hot Springs, AR

Whenever people inquire about our Treks thru the National Parks, we are inevitably asked which one is our favorite. For us, this is a very difficult question to answer as many of these natural wonders ride high at the top of our "favorites list." However, a much easier question for us is this: "Which is your least favorite Park?"

That would be this one! Hot Springs National Park. Number 32. Why, you ask, has this Park fallen out of favor? For me, a National Park is NOT located in the center of an urban area. Parks represent wilderness locations abounding with trees, mountains, valleys, rivers, streams, wild life. Even the ugliest of Joshua Trees gave me more joy than the Bath Houses of Hot Springs. I want desertscapes and alpine meadows and miles of trails to hike. I want rocks to climb. Areas to pitch the Hob and camp. I want waterfalls and rivers and glaciers. I want to witness grizzlies fishing for salmon, eagles soaring high, Dall Sheep prancing on cliff tops. I want incredible scenery. Not a collection of buildings with tubs full of hot water. By the way...most of these Bath Houses are now out of service.

Hot Springs NP is located in the center of town. The "main event" is a series of Bath Houses that have been constructed over Hot Springs Creek. The Springs which provide the thermally heated water for those who choose to bathe in one of the Bath Houses are mostly hidden from view.

Full Moon Bridge

About a half hour drive south of Hot Springs we discovered Garvan Woodland Gardens - a 210- acre horticultural botanical garden worth visiting. Verna Cook Garvan realized that she alone would find it difficult to create the garden masterpiece that now occupies this wooded peninsula on Lake Hamilton so in 1985, she donated the property to the University of Arkansas School of Architecture.

The School was charged with the task of developing a 10-year Master Plan. Most of the construction of the existing Garden was completed in 2000 yet the Grand Opening commencement was held off until April 2002.
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Miles of Smiles

The Park's Bath Houses didn't do anything for us. So off into the woods we hiked. Hot Springs claims to have 26 miles of hiking trails in two separate sections of the Park. We hiked the Hot Springs Mountain, Gulpha Gorge and the Dead Chief Trails during our visit.

The trails were nicely wooded. Very quiet. We encountered a total of 6 other people during our hikes. The Fall colors added visual excitement to our walkabout.

Fountain of Youth

There are several "public fountains" scattered throughout the city providing locals and tourists with the opportunity to fill up their canteens with Hot Springs water. The water is about 140 degrees when it comes out of the spigot and it's supposed to be filled with medicinal benefits!

The early Spa goers would not only bathe in the springs waters, they would "quaff the elixir" as well! The water lacks odor, flavor and color and is tested regularly. We "quaffed" a few quarts ourselves and I could swear I sprouted new hair!


Ozark Bath House

In 1832, Congress and president Andrew Jackson created Hot Springs Reservation - an American Spa for the public benefit. It could be argued that this Park was actually the first entry into our National Park system being preserved for the public forty years before Yellowstone.

What was the attraction? Water. Hot Water. Water that is believed to have high medicinal value. Water to soak in. Water to drink. Water to cure one's ailments!

The first Bath Houses were literally shanty-like tent structures and often burned or collapsed. In 1887 the area was approved for the construction of private Bath Houses ranging from simple to luxurious. In 1921, when the Reserve became an official National Park, monumental Bath Houses like the one pictured above were built to cater to the growing hoards of health-seekers.

A few of those who frequented the Hot Springs were gangsters Al Capone and Lucky Luciano; Boxing greats Joe Louis, Jack Dempsey and John L. Sullivan; western cult heroes Bat Masterson and Wyatt Earp; Babe Ruth and other ball players; and of course, our 42nd president - William Jefferson Clinton grew up in Hot Springs.

The City of Hot Springs

We hiked to the top of the mountain and paid seven scoots each to take an elevator ride to the top of the 216 ft. Hot Springs Mountain Tower that provides you with a 360 degree view of the area. Bath House Row is located in the upper left corner of the picture.

Resting on the Rocks

Yes, this Park places last on our list, however, we always find walking about amongst the trees and boulders to be quite invigorating and refreshing. This is the Park experience I most enjoy. You can keep the buildings, the Towers and the Bath Houses. Just give us a quiet wooded trail and we'll make it a great day!

Bonzai Garden Welcoming Committee

Back to the Botanical Gardens for this site had far more to offer us than the Park! At the Bonsai Garden, a half dozen peacocks roam the grounds keeping a discerning eye on all visitors.

Falling Waters of the Pine Wind

The four acre Garden of the Pine Wind exhibits a genuine asian flavor and features several cascading water falls, rock gardens, koi pond and inspirational bridges.

Giant Koi

Some of the Koi have grown so large they periodically escape the ponds and wander the grounds in search of tourists. The Giant Koi of Garvan Gardens were imported from the Hot Springs region and are believed to have been exposed to the magic elixir spring water since birth. Thus, these super Koi have become one of the main attractions here at the Gardens!

Be advised, pay close attention to the signs reading "Do not feed the Fish."


A berry nice ending to our stroll thru Garvan Woodland Gardens....oh yes, and Hot Springs National Park. Happy trails friends and family and may your life be filled with memorable experiences.

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