Monday, August 23, 2010

National Park #18 - Grand Canyon - South Rim




Colorado River in Marble Canyon at Lee's Ferry

No trip to the Grand Canyon would be complete without getting up close and personal to the Colorado River. On our 220 mile drive from the North Rim to the South, we stopped at Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center to take a peek at the mighty Colorado. (As the crow flies...the distance from the North to South rim is a mere 12 miles.)

The River Raft in the lower right corner was about to launch down the Colorado. Also, what appeared to me to be reflections of the canyon walls in the water actually turned out to swirling mud as the River swept it downstream.

(Double click on the pictures to enlarge them!)

Navajo Bridge

So, how did the pioneers cross the River? In 1873, John D. Lee set up a Ferrying operation that handled river crossings until 1927 when the Ferry sank while the steel arch Navajo Bridge was being constructed. In 1929, Navajo Bridge was christened connecting the south shore to the north. The bridge served well for 66 years...however, automobiles and trucks became larger and larger and the original bridge became obsolete.

In 1994, a second mirror image of the original steel arch Bridge was completed thus accommodating increased loads and traffic.

Vermilion Cliffs

The 3,000- foot escarpment of the Vermilion Cliffs stand tall as a backdrop to the Navajo Bridge crossing. This remote area is supposed to be a geologic treasure of towering cliffs, deep canyons and spectacular sandstone formations. Folks we met along the trails suggested we hike the Paria Canyon located within the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.

Desert View Watch Tower

The Desert View Watch Tower is located at the east entrance of the South Rim. Built in 1932, the 70 foot structure is a replica of an ancient Indian tower and offers up a magnificent view of the Canyon and Colorado River. (see next picture) When climbing the 80+ spiral staircase to the top level of the Tower, you will be at the highest point on the South Rim with a 360° view of the Painted Desert, the Grand Canyon and the San Francisco Peaks to the south.


When we visited the Tower, it was undergoing some exterior cosmetic work. There was a big nasty looking lift and scaffolding everywhere making the Tower not at all photogenic. I snatched this photo off the internet! (so far, this is the only shot in all of this National Park blogging business where I did not take the picture!)

The interior walls of the Tower were painted by Indian artist, Fred Kabotie, the same fellow who did the artwork at Petrified National Park.

Colorado River from Desert View Watchtower

Looking northwest from the top of the Watchtower, you'll enjoy a great glimpse of the muddy Colorado as it winds its way thru the Canyon.

Down the Bright Angel Trail

Speaking of winding down thru the Canyon, Terry and I embarked upon our second decent into the Canyon on August 20th. Our destination - Indian Garden - 4.6 miles down from the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail. The Bright Angel is the most popular trail on the South Rim and gets plenty of traffic. Yet it also provides hikers with three very handy rest and water stops along the way.

These three stops offer fresh water May thru September, pit toilets and a shady place to rest your weary body and are known as: the 1.5 mile Rest house, the 3.0 mile Rest House and Indian Garden. You will find no more water or wee wee stations until you reach Bright Angel Campground 7.8 miles from the Rim at the bottom of the Canyon.

Like the North Kaibab Trail, the Bright Angel is steep and challenging. The elevation change from Rim to Garden is 2985'...almost the same drop as the North Kaibab Trail from the Rim down to Roaring Springs. The trail is pretty well maintained, however, the mule traffic does tear the trail up a bit.

Unlike the North Kaibab Trail, the Brighty is not nearly as visually pleasing. Fewer trees and shrubs. Very few colorful plants. Even the layers of different sedimentary rock were not as interesting as the trail on the North Rim. So...if you have time for only one hike in the Canyon...head out to the North Rim and trek down the North Kaibab!

Trail to Indian Garden

If you double click on this picture and blow it up, you'll be able to see the 3-mile Rest House on the right side of the image where the trail appears to be making a U-turn. Down in the Canyon, you'll see a patch of greenery - that's Indian Garden - our destination.

Notice the yawning character on the face of the cliff.

Stay off the Cacti!

Indian Garden Cabin

Indian Garden is a lovely riparian area shaded by mature cottonwood trees. A small creek passes thru the Garden on its way to the Colorado River and helps irrigate the plant life and provide water for the small mule deer herd that resides here. One of the herd practically joined Terry and I for lunch. These creatures are NOT frightened by humans. Nor are the squirrels and chipmunks who will literally crawl all over you for a handout.

Within the Garden, there are several vacant cabins, a Ranger Station with helicopter landing pad, mule corral, day use picnic areas, several pit toilets, fresh water and a campground. It is a veritable oasis for those hiking the Canyon.

Back up the Bright Angel

What goes down must come up! At the 3-mile Rest House they have a warning sign. It reads: Going Down is Optional. Going up is Mandatory! The sign cautions day hikers to consider their hiking abilities and stamina before venturing further into the canyon.

Interestingly, there are over 250 rescues each season in the Canyon. Most of those rescued are young males ages 18-27 who think they are in better shape than they are. Canyon hiking is very deceiving. Going down is relatively easy. It's the coming back up that challenges the body!
Kolb Studio...a welcome sight!

Once you see this sight...you know you've made it to the top! Kolb Studio is one of the famous buildings located on the South Rim. Built by Emory Kolb where he lived for over 70 years, the Studio is now a bookstore and art gallery.

Back in the day, Emory and his brother Ellsworth used the Studio to hawk souvenir photos of mule riders descending into the Grand Canyon. Their true passion, however, was exploring the Grand Canyon and capturing their adventures on film. In 1911, the brothers floated the Colorado River for all it was worth and filmed their entire journey. This was the first such successful river run since John Wesley Powell did it back in 1869.

Brighty!

Brighty of the Grand Canyon was real and has been memorialized by this bronze statue. Brighty lived at the Grand Canyon from around 1892 until 1922. He was given the name Bright Angel after the creek that flowed into the canyon from his home on the North Rim...but everyone called him Brighty.

Brighty spent his summers carrying water from a spring to early tourist accommodations on the North Rim. He was also used to entertain youngsters who would ride on his back for hours...which sounded very appealing as we hiked back up the Bright Angel Trail.

Fare thee well friends. Terry and I will be heading to the Pacific Northwest in September. Our next Trek will take us to Mt. Rainier, Olympic and North Cascades National Parks. Numbers 19, 20 and 21! Happy trails.




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