Mt. Rainier is the first of three Treks thru the Parks we will take during our visit to the Pacific Northwest. From here, we'll venture to Olympic and North Cascades before we call it a summer. And what a summer its been! We will have visited 17 Parks since June...and have completed 21 of the 40 Parks we're tracking to Trek between now and 2012!
Historically speaking, Mt. Rainier became our country’s 5th National Park in 1899 to preserve the greatest single-peak glacial system in the contiguous United States. Rainier is host to over 20 glaciers. Carbon Glacier, which is located on the north side of the mountain, is Rainier's thickest measuring nearly 700' and reaches downward to the 3500 foot elevation level...the lowest lying glacier in the Continental US.
September 9, 2010. We depart “Hell” (Phoenix) at 6am. Temp outside - 92°. Forecast high for the day 104°. This summer, the heat is really beginning to get to me….especially after having been treated to many much cooler climes while trekking around the country this summer.
We are headed for Seattle where we'll pick up our rental car and head up to the Paradise Inn located in the southwestern section of Mt. Rainier National Park. Elevation at the Inn - 5481. Temperature when we arrive - 41 lovely degrees! A sharp and welcomed contrast to the hellish weather we've had to deal with all summer...or should I say when we've been at home in Phoenix!
Having previously flown into Seattle on many occasions, I had a pretty good idea as to where to sit for the best viewing of Mt. Rainier. Left hand side of the plane. Preferably rows 1 thru 5. Unfortunately, those were taken so we retreat back to row 17. Why 17? Quicker drink service. You see, on Southwest there are three Flight Attendants (FAs) working each flight. They each take a section of the plane in which to perform their service. The FA in front takes isles 1 thru 8. FA #2 takes isles 9-16. And the FA working the back of the plane takes 17-23. So row 17 is the first to be served!
The wing does get a bit in the way; however, sitting in the window seat does afford me a decent view. And we are treated to a glorious view of Rainier as we pass by. Poking it's upper half above the cloud cover, Rainier looks like a huge vanilla frosted cupcake towering above all else. Terry says to me "Take a good look at it now. This may be the only view of the mountain we get to actually see!" How right she was!
Paradise Inn shrouded with Cloud
When we arrived at the Visitors Center in Paradise, the fog/clouds were so thick, you could see no more than perhaps 50 yards. We asked the Ranger where the Paradise Inn was located. He says “its about 400 yards over there”…pointing out into the abyss. We hop in the car and head out 400 yards into the thickness.
Immediately we find ourselves heading down a one-way road away from everything. No Paradise Inn. Only a thick grey mist. Ten minutes later we wind our way up back to the Visitors Center. We ask the Ranger once again “Where the heck is the Paradise Inn?” Same response, “its about 400 yards up the hill." Ah ha! Up the hill! Not that there is any hill visible…yet this try, we turn left up into the thick of it and lo and behold out of the dense fog appears the Inn!
Although gloomy for the first three days...on the day we departed...the sun peaked thru and exposed the Inn as it was meant to be seen!
The Paradise Inn opened in 1917 and sits at the base of Mt. Rainier amongst an extravagantly beautiful alpine garden. It just so happens to be one of the 16 Great Lodges of the National Parks that also resides on the Bucket List! This Trek is a twofer! Park and Lodge in one stop!
Night One at Paradise
I awoke startled finding Terry pacing at the foot of the bed breathing heavily. “What’s up?” I ask.
“I thought I heard someone in our room! It scared the pee out of me so I got up to take a look around.” she replied.
Not that there was much space in which to look mind you as the rooms at the Paradise Inn are very small. Ours had enough room for a queen-sized bed. No more than a foot between bed and the window on my side and maybe 18” between bed and wall on Terry’s side. I didn’t measure it, but I’ll bet there wasn’t much more than about 18” between the foot of the bed and a small desk that rested up against the bathroom wall.
The bathroom had a sink the size of a soup bowl, a shitter and shower all crammed into a space about the size of a normal shower stall. I’m not sure how anybody else could have been in the room unless they were in bed with us!
Nevertheless, Terry paced back and forth between the bed and the small desk for a minute in her startled sleepy state before she realized that the noise she heard was the guy in the adjoining room snoring like a Grizzly.
By the Lodge Management's own admission, the walls at the Paradise Inn are paper-thin! You can clearly hear other guests talk, snore and fart as clearly as if they were in your room! Yet the Inn is proud to provide its current day guests with the same "creature comforts" afforded the visitors back in the "good old days". No phones. (No problem) No TV. (Terrific!) Dinky Bathrooms. (Now we're starting to stretch things a bit...especially since our Shitter boiled over upon first flush!) Cozy beds. (Very comfy) And walls so thin that you can easily join in on the conversations of those in neighboring rooms!
The rooms may be a bit...old style...however, the rest of the Lodge is handsomely constructed. The Great Hall as you enter is a 50’ x 112’ two story tall room built of weathered Alaska Cedar timbers salvaged from a burn area close to the Inn. The carpeted main floor is filled with cedar log furniture with leather cushions and adorned with lighting fixtures covered by hand painted parchment shades with native wildflower designs as shown above.
The second story is a small mezzanine looking down upon the main floor. This space is an ideal getaway to read, play games, sip a glass or two of vino, relax or watch people warming themselves by the two massive stone fireplaces located at each end of the Hall.
Speaking of vino...the wine selection at the Inn is very good. Oregon and Washington produce some excellent reds and whites...however, I may not be the most reliable of sommeliers as I'm not sure I've ever met a Vino I didn't like!
The food, however, was only OK. Terry's trout was grossly overcooked. My Burger was nuked beyond recognition. the Crab Mac 'n Cheese and the Bison Meatloaf were decent. The service was indifferent and unfortunately, when your the only game in town, there isn't much incentive to put forth an outstanding effort.
Yet, we weren't here for the vino or the food...we came for the Mountain...wherever it may be hiding!
Myrtle Falls and Mrs. Bink
September 10th. It’s time to Trek the Mountain! The clouds are a bit thinner today. Visibility is around a hundred yards compared to the pea soup we experienced yesterday. Our destination – Panorama Point…a 2½ mile hike up the hill with an elevation climb of about 1400 feet. I’m not certain there will be any “panoramic view” when we reach our destination…however, just getting out to stretch the legs and breath the moist high mountain air will be a delight! If you should visit Rainier and the Paradise area, this hike is a good one.
Edith Creek and Mr. Bink
There are several trails leading up to Panorama. We choose the eastern route of the Skyline Trail and spurred off on the Golden Gate Trail just north of Myrtle Falls. The first mile is a gradual incline. Then the trail makes a series of steep switchbacks before rejoining the Skyline Trail.
The misty morning kept the trail wet and slick and the mountain well masked from view!
Paradise Color Extravaganza!
Back in the late 1890's when young Martha Longmire first laid eyes on the meadows that surround the area where the Inn was to eventually be built...she was treated to a springtime explosion of alpine color! She exclaimed, "This must be what Paradise is like!" Hence, the name Paradise stuck has forever more.
Purple, yellow, crimson, orange, white....
Our misty morning hike may have had poor visibility for mountain viewing...however, around every switchback we seemed to be treated to another splash of brilliantly colored wildflowers.
And in addition to the colorful flora, we also encountered many a munching Marmot! These furry fellows were everywhere fattening up for the oncoming winter months. Marmots are truly one of the few mammals that actually hibernate. Bears are thought to be hypernaters...however, they really only go into a deep sleep.
OK, I got carried away with the flora on this hike...however, it was hypnotic!
Snow and Ice Fields Ahead
We are within .32 miles from Panorama Point when we come across this sign on the trail. "Steep and Icy Trail Conditions. Use extreme caution." We forge ahead and about 10 minutes after reading the warning sign we reach a massive Ice Field. The fog is so thick now that we cannot see across the Ice Field...consequently, we do not know how far it stretches.
Below us in the mist, I hear voices so I slip and slide my way down to see if these folks are standing on Panorama Point. Terry follows ever so cautiously behind me insisting that we turn around and head back down the hill. "We have no business being out here on an Ice Field without the proper gear!" She insists.
I, on the other hand, sense that we are very close to our destination and continue downward toward the talking clouds. I reach a group of 12 people who are taking a Mountaineering class in preparation for climbing Mt Rainier. Unlike me, these folks are fully geared up. I ask one of the Trainers where Panorama Point might be hiding and he points upward into the thick cloud cover. "It's somewhere up over that way, " he says. "It's not far...however, the trail is very steep as you approach it. If you don't have crampons, it could be a tough climb."
That's all Terry needed to hear! No friggin' way are we going to continue up this ice cube and off into the gloom! Oh...but I sense that we are ever SOOOO close to our destination! But she's right. Most people who suffer dire consequences on the mountain are those who get caught up high without the proper gear or the proper training! We have neither! And on this hunk of ice, our footwear is performing more like roller skates than hiking boots.
So...back to base camp we go! Oh so close!
We make our way back down the same trail we had climbed. At the Visitor's Center, I am able to talk Terry into another try at Panorama Point. She agrees to it and we wolf down a bowl before heading back up the mountain. This time, we'll trek up the western section of the Skyline Trail. The sky has gotten a bit clearer now and the trail much steeper! The first mile of this section has got to be rated 45°... or steeper! It's a genuine lung buster! The rock stairway shown above is the gentle part of the trail!
Mr. Mistopholeeze the Magical Marmot
And along the way, we are treated to more Marmots whistling and posing and munching the greenery. They certainly are not intimidated by us humans as they hang close by the trail and entertain the passers by.
Mrs. Binkele my Beautiful Bride
Why is this woman smiling? Because she talked sense into her overly ambitious Hubby who wanted to venture out onto the fields of Ice and into the unknown! We did make it up to Panorama Point via the western route. The view was...not to be seen! The clouds seem to get thicker the higher we climbed. And there sat the Ice Field just off to our left.
Sure enough, we had to be within 200-300 yards from Panorama Point on our first attempt. But now looking down across the Ice Field, we would have had one helluva time working our way up the steeps! Next time...I bring the Crampons and Ice Pick!
Nisqually Glacier
The clouds momentarily retreat giving us a glimpse of the Nisqually Glacier nestled along the southern reaches of Mt. Rainier.
September 11th. The clouds still linger over the mountain and Terry's knees and hips are a bit sore from our double hike up to Panorama Point yesterday...so we take a drive down the mountain to explore other sites. Narada Falls is one of Rainier's most popular viewpoints. It drops a total of 188 feet in two tiers. The top tier, shown above, descends 168 feet. The bottom section drops an additional 20 feet.
During the winter months, the upper Falls freezes over and becomes a 150 foot icicle luring ice climbers to scale its sheer and slippery sides. Go fer it boyz!
With each Park visited, I will say that we grow fonder of each other and of the amazing landscapes our country has preserved for all of us to enjoy!
One of the most photographed waterfalls in the Park is Christine Falls. The falls are a part of Van Trump Creek and drop in two tiers. The upper tier (not shown) being a 32 foot plunge. The Lower falls drops another 37 feet and can be seen framed by the rock bridge spanning the Creek.
The Falls were named in honor of Christine Van Trump, who in 1889 at age 9 and despite having a crippling nervous disorder, climbed up to the 10,000 foot level on Mt. Rainier with her father.
Later that afternoon, my Muir-like legs begged for more action. Terry allowed me another go at the Skyline Trail Loop solo "as long as you promise me NOT to cross the Ice Field". I kept my promise and skirted the Ice by taking the longer and steeper Highland Trail which bi-passes the slick section.
The skies were finally beginning to show signs of sunlight as I zoomed up the western section of the trail. I reached Panorama Point in 45 minutes and caught my breath watching a group of Mountaineering students practice crossing the Ice Field. I still couldn't see across the bloody thing! Will this fog ever clear?
I noticed the Students were geared up with crampons, Ice Picks and all roped together as they ascended the steep portion of the trail that I thought I was going to do a couple of days ago...without gear!
On the descent, I chose to take a different route bypassing the Garden Gate Trail and sticking to the entire Skyline route. Great choice! Along the way, I came across an older couple who were looking off into the distance. They pointed out a rather large bear grazing in the meadow below. This fellow was too far to photograph effectively...even with my telephoto lens...however, it was very cool to see him mosey amongst the forest floor eating berries and grubs and such.
A mile later, I came across the Black Bear shown above. Now she was definitely within photographic range! A group of us who happened upon Momma Bear rapidly clicked off dozens of pictures...when much to our delight....
and her two Cubs!
...her two Cubs playfully appeared! What an amazing sight to witness! I watched Momma and her Cubs graze for about 10 minutes before heading back up the hill to Paradise!
September 12th - the Sun Cometh Out at Last!
The morning we are to leave Rainier, the sun burns off the cloud cover and exposes "The Mountain!" Terry and I get a glimpse of it from the window at the end of the hall about twenty paces from our room. We dash outside and make our way to the nearest clearing and began soaking up its grandeur! What an incredible sight to behold!
This volcanic mountain is distinctively marked with several glaciers flowing in all directions. Nisqually and Paradise Glaciers along with the Muir Snowfields are visible to us.
Mt. Rainier
Mt. Rainier is an active Volcano rising a bit over 14,000 feet above sea level. It once stood over 16,000 feet tall, but like its sister Mt. St. Helens, Rainier blew its lid a couple thousand years ago reducing it to its present size. The incredble thing about the Cascades Range is that the dominent mountains seem to stand alone popping out of the landscape like a gigantic beast.
To the north stands Mt Baker which rises tall near North Cascades National Park. South of Baker is Rainier. Heading further south Mt. St Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams all rise majestically above the clouds. Even further south along the "Ring of Fire, you'll find Mt Shasta and Mt. Lassen standing large.
One last shot before the Gods of the Mountain...
...close the curtain on this morning's brief showing! Yes, three minutes after taking this shot, the Gods pulled the cloud curtain tightly closed thus ending our viewing session! This mountain creates its own weather and when she's shown herself off enough, she wastes no time in covering up her bosom!
The massive ice pack on the summit creates cloud caps that can quickly conceal the mountain. You can see the warm, moist air climbing up the slopes in the picture above. When it meets the cool air over the ice cap, the water vapor condenses forming lenticular clouds which can quickly blot out any view of the mountain. Yet for those brief few moments, we were able to relish regal Rainier.
Happy Trails friends. We'll meet again at Olympic National Park!
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